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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.